Hoppy's Cycle: Oaxaca

It was a slow, deliberate exit from Tepoztlan - one, because mountains always hold me and secondly because it was a such a rejuvenating stay at La Puerta with Ea - the owner. He is such a wise man with so much love......but it was time to move on. I was feeling centred, balanced and strong again

It is amazing how each segment of this journey takes on its own energy - first it was the excitement of the whole journey itself, and the start with the Natchez Trace. Then it was a trip to a destination - Austin, Texas with the incentive of getting the wheels sorted (which so far are holding out fine, thanks). Then it was a new energy to cycle through Texas to the border with Mexico and the excitement of that and the bus journey to Vera Cruz. The dynamic of cycling through Mexico to another destination, namely La Puerta took on a whole new challenge - the challenge of the Mexican mountains...and they nearly won (but of course it is not about winning or losing, just being on the journey!)

A whole new energy began after La Puerta - now there was no specific destination ‘to get to‘ - it was all about the moment, the minute, the hour, the day, the night, the cycle in itself. And it was very much day by day because it was mountain pass after mountain pass after mountain pass - fortunately I could get up them this time on the bike, but there is still no respite...they go on and on, but the views were spectacular and the photos included are very much about the scenery.

The first night was spent camping next to a lovely river so water no problem - I always take drinking water with me, but it is nice not to have use the drinking water for washing either myself or the pots. I had run out of fuel for the stove and could not find any replacement anywhere, so was using the fire stove and what a pleasure it is in an emergency...but it makes all the pots filthy - I had used the old trick of making a paste with some washing powder to put on the outside of the pots, and this really helps with the cleaning but they do require lots of water to clean.

In the evening I was sitting on a rock with my feet in the stream when I felt a nibbling on my feet - looking down there were lots of little fish nibbling at the dead skin on my feet - natural fish therapy!!!!

But again - great camp sight but sooo noisy - it was at the bottom of a pass so all the large trucks using their engine breaks all night long...no sleep!

Night two was spent a little further away from the main road again near a river bed, but dry this time so no nibbling fish! I asked a farmer if I could put up my tent for the night and no problem there so it was a little quieter and got a good night’s sleep.

Day three was onward and upward and upward and upward. By mid afternoon, had run out of bread (am using bread to fill up on and pile on the carbos - it is light and straps onto the back of the panniers so doesn’t get squashed!!!). There was a little town called Petlalcingo on the map, but was just off the main road - I would not normally have detoured off the main drag but it was literally right there and looked so pretty from the main road, and literally seemed to suck me in. Well what an amazing little town with a feeling of such a warm welcome, with smiling and happy faces and lots of greetings.

The bread shop man spoke perfect English - he had worked in the States for many years. I had done over 4 hours on the bike, so it was time for a break for the night, so asked him if there some sort of camp site - he said no but an Argentinian guy had camped in the town park the night before. Well it was a Sunday so no Mayor to ask, but some guy in the town square said I could put my tent up anywhere. But it was all go in the little town on a Sunday with a market of local produce and then in the evening a local soccer game, church going and more festivities. I was befriended by a guy selling coconuts who couldn’t speak a word of English and my Spanish is still pretty non existent so we made great conversation. But I can tell you what - coconut juice straight from the coco never tasted so good - neither has coconut!!! Man, that was beautiful.

Went down to wash in the stream, and then Mr. Coco was having dinner with his buddy and wife who owned a restaurant, named after their twin daughters - “Gemelas -Twins”. So they offered me a meal, and then a bed for the night, breakfast the next morning and wouldn’t take a $. I got my guitalele out and played at their restaurant in the evening - not that anybody could either hear me or understand what the dickens I was singing about...but anyway! What really special people - full of kindness, generosity and love - such open, warm, genuine and friendly people.

My heart went out to them and that beautiful town. Mr. Coco must have had a sense of humor because he said the rest of the road to Oaxaca was flat...Ha, Ha, Ha Mr. Coco - the joke was on me!!!!

Goodness me, what mountains.

Sweat from two days in the mountains!

A welcome sign!!

Met two Dutch people on Motor Bikes in San Domingo Yanhuitan (I think), Branko and Ingrid Pokorny, so it was good to speak some English. They are going all the way down to Southern Argentina and back again. Have a great trip guys. They are on Facebook if you want to check them out.

Finally on day 7 after leaving La Puerta made it into Oaxaca - apparently where they sell hallucinogenic mushrooms - well I didn’t need to take any - those mountains were real enough.

Still loads of mountains to go, but after this last week will give them a miss and opt for a bus through to the Yucatan Peninsular and then onto Belize - the mountains took their toll - got a bit of a groin strain, am really tired and need a few days rest, so might as well rest on the move.