After four days at La Puerta Retreat Centre with some Yoga, Tai Chi, meditation, rest, sleep and lots of food, I am starting to feel a little bit more balanced and the ankles are back to normal. There has been a mixture of rain and sunshine which has been great - good not be out cycling in the rain but rather snuggled up in my sleeping bag in a dry tipi. I have lived in a tipi in Malawi for a few months and it is good to be back in one - their energy is great - very comforting.
It is also much cooler here in the mountains so that makes a very welcome change, and am again starting to feel a little more grounded with bare feet walking on the Earth, hot showers, and some good food - pancakes and maple syrup.
Made me think about setting up something similar in the Chimanimani Mountains in Zimbabwe - perfect location, perfect climate....but then the powers that be will just come and take it away from you! Such a pity! Anyway.......
Reality Check - Taking Stock
OK - some blib-blab now.
It all sounds very wonderful and glorified taking off on a bike to cycle around the Americas and nearly everyone I spoke to about the trip before I went, all said, “how amazing, great, I would love to do something like that.” I have been thinking much about the journey so far and the following are some points of view.
It has been hugely rewarding, and has certainly lived up to its expectations of being a Spirit Journey. Sometimes the rewards are only seen in retrospect, rather than in the moment when you are sweating blood after three hours going uphill at 7 km/hr, but it has not been all as glamorous as it sounds. Herewith some pointers on the maybe not so glamorous side for those thinking of a long bike trip!!! But it is this very not so glamorous side that grows, moulds and deepens the Spirit and the personality, and nurtures strength and resilience of mind, body and Spirit. It teaches us how strong we really are and how strong we can be...and I guess it teaches us humility. And I have found...it is starting to grow and develop a softness and a tenderness through the hardness. But remember, "The Spirit can never break!"
And no matter what journey you are on, also remember that every step, every thought, every creative idea, every revolution of the wheel, is getting you to where you want to go, however slow it may be.
I would welcome some comments from people who have done cycle tours:
It is bloody hard work! There are times when you have to really dig deep, either when there is nowhere suitable to stop for the night and you have to push on because of the terrain or climate. I know that there are times when I have pushed myself very hard and done some huge mileages when I needn’t have (and this is going to change!!!), but again at times there is no alternative. “Well what did you expect, I hear you say, you are going on a bike trip for goodness sake!” I hear you! But I couldn't resist this photo that I took in the States.
"All it takes, is all you got!"
Food
One has to be very careful with regard to planning one’s route re food and the cost thereof. It is advisable to always carry some emergency rations ie. rice, quinoa, energy bars, cereal, some tins of tuna, in case one cannot make it to a planned shopping center/refueling station, or one is held up with bad weather etc. Vast amounts of calories are being consumed on the bike and these need to be replaced daily otherwise one is going to run out of steam. I am eating loads, it is quite monotonous food, but I have realized that I have not been eating enough as I have been very hungry during these last four days and I can tell you sometimes all I can dream of is having a breakfast of cereal, fruit and yoghurt, bacon, eggs sausage, pancakes laced in syrup, hash browns, coffee!!!! And I would if I could if it was there and if I could afford it.
Cash
Which leads on to the cash situation - I am terrible at budgeting - I never know how much things are going to cost, how much money I am going to need etc. They say that when you are packing your pannier bags, put everything out on the bed then throw half of it away and only pack the rest. Well here is a tip with regard to finances - have a generous estimate of what you will require and then double it, and don’t go until you have it. There is no greater stress then being short of cash when traveling in a foreign country (and that also means enough cash for a flight home if necessary), I have a feeling I am going to come unstuck here - my budget is way too thin and adding quite a lot of added stress to the journey and I don’t think I will be able to sustain the trip financially in the long term. Central and South America may be OK, but back into the States and Canada, if I ever get there, may be an issue. The new wheeIs hit my budget hard. It is also great to have cash to do some sight seeing and activities (scuba diving, horse back riding etc) in places as well. I may consider breaking the trip to go back to the UK and earn some extra cash in a few months. Make sure also that you have cleared with your bank which countries you will be going to and that you will using your credit/debit card in these countries - again there is nothing more frustrating than going to an ATM and your transaction not being processed. This has happened to me on the last three occasions here in Mexico when I have tried to withdraw money and on every occasion I have been denied. If this does happen try ATM’s at as many different banks as you can - on my 4th try at a different bank I was finally able to draw some cash. Always also carry some extra US$ with you, (and not all in one place) and try to use them only in emergencies so you always have a reserve.
Water
Water is really heavy to carry, but always better to have than not to have. You will soon figure out if water is readily available or not - here in Mexico it is plentiful, but you have to buy drinking water. If it is readily available and you don’t want to carry too much during the day, do make sure that you are fully stocked up towards the end of the day in case where you stop for the night does not have any. Also be aware that you may be ‘stranded’ due to bad weather so again, although heavy to carry, maybe always good to have a surplus. And in hot climates, drink early and often. Sometimes on the bike when it is slightly cooler and if there is breeze, you may not be aware how much fluid you are actually loosing, and at the end of the day when you need water for cooking, you may be very thirsty and dehydrated and not have enough. And remember also, that if you have spent a long day on the bike and even if you have been hydrating throughout the day, the body may loose more than it can replace, so continue drinking once you have stopped as well.
Washing
If you are like me and hate going to bed with the days sweat engrained in your pores, you may have a problem!!!!!! (Sissy!!!) Washing needs water. I try and reserve at least one water bottle simply to be able to wipe down with a damp cloth at the end of the day. Cycling through Puebla in the rain with all the traffic, I got absolutely filthy - fortunately that night I found a cheap motel with a hot shower. “What do you expect, I hear you say, you are going a bike trip, for goodness sake!!” I hear you!
I remember reading one blog of a cycle trip where they said the longest they went without washing was 12 days! Well, at least I have managed to wipe down at least once a day!!!
However, having said the above, and don’t be shocked, apart from the Motels and B & B’s/Retreat Centers, I haven’t used either soap or deodorant, and have not smelled at all. In fact, I remember noticing when I was Austin sitting on the computer for a couple of hours, really noticing my body odor, but as said out on the bike, nothing! Fresh air and exercise, huh!
Noise
I have done loads of cycling in the past and obviously there has always been the traffic consideration. But spending 4 to 7 hours on the road every day, day after day, the noise problem has really hit home. And it is very noisy both on and off the road. Unless one is completely off grid and cycling on mountain bike trails, there is a constant stream of traffic going past on the bike. When there is no shoulder on the road the traffic is often very close to the bike and when there are road works, sometimes there is a back up of traffic behind the bike as there is nowhere for the vehicles to pass. If it is peace and quiet you are looking for, either pick your route off road, or stick with mountain biking nearer to home!! Even at night I have found that there is no peace and quiet - many of the big trucks travel at night and most of the camping sites (in the States at any rate) are right off the main drag, so again there is constant noise from the traffic. And if you are pitching a tent for the night in the bush, chances are that it will be fairly close to the road as well, so again constant noise. The big towns and cities are also at times very difficult to negotiate and the larger the town/city the longer it takes to get through/around. I have to say that I have found the traffic and noise aspect very stressful indeed.
“Well what did you expect, I hear you say...you are going on bike trip for goodness sake!!” I hear you.
Generally though in the US and Mexico, the drivers have been very considerate - a couple of ‘wallies’ but generally good. I think here in Mexico they are so shocked to see what they are seeing that they generally slow down to get a good look......and when they see a gringo covered in white Zinc sunblock, I am sure they have a real fit of laughter.
I remember the delight of the peace and quiet taking up mountain biking back in Zimbabwe after years of triathlon training out on the roads with the traffic.
So there you have it - some not so pleasant sides to a trip like this.
But it is onward tomorrow towards Belize; towards Oaxaca (pronounced Wu Hucka), and then San Cristobal at over 8000ft!!! - hopefully be there in about a month....Belize that is...but maybe only San Cristobal!!! Mexico is huge with huge mountains.