Hoppy's Cycle: On The Road Again

I bade Austin a very fond farewell on Saturday June 16th and headed south again. Was hoping for an early start but realized that the cycle shop had not put my cycle computer sensor back on the new wheels so I had to wait until they opened at 9am to go and get it fitted - can’t go anywhere without the cycle computer!!! As it happened I never would have got away earlier as it took an age to get everything packed away again - I have changed my packing configuration, which seems to be working much more efficiently More later re the packing.

The wheels look and feel great and the gearing is much smoother. I met a guy that builds bikes and he said they were a good touring wheel so that set my heart at ease - but they were way over budget - I had budgeted for a new set of wheels but these were very expensive - nonetheless, it had to be done and I now have peace of mind. I will just have to wild camp for 70 days and they will be paid for!!!!!! Also had a new rear cassette put on 11-34 which will help with the hills.

It was also a very fond farewell to Eric and Bridget where I stayed in Austin for 9 days with Banjo and Shane the two dogs. Thank you so much guys and dogs for a wonderful stay and for helping out so much - really appreciated and good luck with everything.

I have met some truly wonderful people on this leg - not that I haven’t met truly wonderful people on any other leg. I was cycling out of Austin on probably the most terrible road and a young couple passed me and waved - a km later they had pulled off the road and waved me down - they had previously done some bike touring and had used that same road out of Austin and really sympathised with me - we had a long chat, but it was special to meet them - all the best you guys and why you don’t you come ‘down’ and join me in Patagonia over Christmas?

First night in Luling. 78km. I had taken a wrong turn in Luling looking for a camp site....or rather not taken a turn when I should have, and cycled over the San Marcos River with what looked like a lovely picnic site on its bank with people swimming in the river and generally having a good time. Good enough for me. All the revelers had left by 9 pm so ready for bed when the police showed up.....but all was good...he was just locking up the gate at the road to the picnic site and was quite happy for me to stay the night. Night one - wild camping!

Night two - Cuero. 80km. Dark rain clouds above so a camp site for night two, and didn’t quite get the tent up in time, so some things got a little damp. However, the rain in this area is more brief downpours, than set in for days, and in a very short space of time the sun was out, it was sweltering hot again and very humid, so everything got dry nice and quickly....and an early start the next day with a most beautiful sunrise to welcome the day.

It has been incredibly hot cycling these first three days and hence the decision to get up early and get most of the cycling in before lunch - the afternoons are the hottest, there has been plenty of water but the body can only absorb so much fluid. It can loose up to 4 litres of fluid an hour but can only absorb up to 2 litres an hour so there is bound to be some dehydration on a 4 to 5 hour ride - the key of course is to keep rehydrating when one has stopped for the day......but because of the heat one will continue to lose fluid even off the bike. Some nights in the tent, the camping mat is wet with sweat even during sleep, so one has to be very careful to get enough fluid.

Night three - Refugio via Goliad - one of the most fought after places in Texas with its nine flags representing the various ‘nations‘ that have controlled the region of South Texas over the years: The Spanish, French, First Republic of Texas, Mexican, Second Republic of Texas, First Independence Flag, Republic of Texas, Confederate States Flag and the United States Flag. Again loads of history here and I cycled away to the country music of Willie Nelson on my Ipod - I could almost see the mounted cavalry disappearing into the haze.

And then there was the re- adornment of General Zaragoza - I don’t know the history but I guess they thought it was time to clean up his act!!!

But the next day I was in serious humour and wondered whether I should pop into my namesake village.

But on second thoughts, better leave it this time........

And heaven only knows what goes on here...........I laughed for miles.........

Against my better judgement, I decided to detour into Corpus Christie - I wanted to get a glimpse of the 'Gulf Coast' and there were plenty of 'camping flags' on my map, so I thought I would easily find camping. But again 'bloody' RV sites with no tent camping. Only one option - go into and through Corpus Christie and see what comes up on the other side. Well, getting into the city was no problem..apart from the wind, but getting out was a serious adventure as basically there is only one way out across the river without having to go about 40 miles around...and on a bike, no thank you. As it was, there had been a serious head wind coming into Corpus Christie - cycled for an hour an half at 7mph...going nowhere really quickly. Wind turbines - a cyclist's worst nightmare - well I suppose it depends on which direction you are going and which way the wind is blowing!!!!!

So there was only way out - over the bridge...and there was no shoulder to cycle, a serious incline and a really serious wind. I was halfway up and a police car thankfully came up behind me - he wanted me to hold onto his car and tow me up, but I have done this before and it is seriously dangerous not to mention with a full load on the bike. Anyway, I wish I was able to film it because he sat behind me, put all his flashing lights on and gave me a personal escort over the bridge. Thanks Cop!!!

But I did have a chance to check out the USS Lexington in Corpus Christie before dicing with death on the bridge!!!

Again, another age getting out of the city at rush hour - quite nerve racking and it was good to finally get out into the country...but of course no camping sites on the horizon, so I guessed it would be the first night by the side of the road. So, at 8 pm with light fading, it was a knock on a farmers door to ask if I could pitch my tent somewhere...........

Pitched the tent on the side of the barn, but a great breakfast in the barn and just beat a morning rain shower. But nonetheless an amazing Texan sunset.

So onward towards Brownsville, and I was sitting outside a Wendy's eatery having a milkshake (which I may add I have become very partial to after 3 to 4 hours of cycling in this heat...as well as smoothies!!!!), and JD Garza pulled up, we got talking and he bought me meal - wonderful generousTexan hospitality - JD you are a gentleman - thank you so much! It got me all the way to Riviera where another gesture of kindness gave me another 'free' night with an offer to sleep in an empty Fireworks caravan. A bit of a sauna, but dry...almost. Thanks Mr. Saenz - another good man.

And then coming through San Benito, I just couldn't resist stopping into a Harley Davidson shop - what amazing bikes - entry level $8000 up to $30 000. No prob.